Now it seems way low and I was wondering if I should readjust the cable length or is it the pedal going bad? Pedal was set at ~5.5" but that was worse so I adjusted it to ~5.75". Are you sure about this. Someone good with the clutch pedal control though can engage the clutch just as smooth without the damper. There is one thing when installing a master cylinder…brake or clutch… It is called “Bench Bleeding” some “mechanics” never heard of this…and thats bad. Then take some time to go to a few of those shops and interview the owner. That was with a $500 bill. One is low fluid in the master/slave cylinder. Given this symptom, could it be anything other than an internally-leaking slave or master cylinder (past the seals)? That conflicts with what I have been told or read elsewhere but it would be great if true - because like I stated above, there are definitely no external leaks anywhere and I sure haven’t lost any fluid. My clutch pedal is riding really low and it is very hard to shift. One thing I did try was raising the engine up higher in RPM on reverse and there's a little drag but not enough to grind. maybe you just got a bad one 8 months ago. Even though I had known the slave was part of the clutch kit, for some reason I thought price and labor would be about the same no matter which one was the problem. My question is - is there any way to adjust the pedal bite point without messing with the hydraulics, fluid, or lines in any way? So I got it today and the clutch is engaging really low. In normal, modern stop-and-go driving, you probably press the clutch pedal in every few seconds. As per comment - if your car has a direct hydraulic connection from the pedal, you should be able to either alter the lever arm on the pedal, or check the hydraulic pressure in the line - if it is too low you could get this symptom. But it appears that replacing the slave is the same job and the same $1000+ expense that getting an entire new clutch installed is. I didn't want to take everything apart if shortening the clutch cable length would not help. The 350 Pedal engagement and pedal height is notoriously way too high stock.. and like I said before.. an aftermarket clutch in place of the stock may just seem like such a drastic change due to the very high engagement you were used to from the stock height. Gap and pedal travel need to be set. If your clutch is too stiff, one of the simplest things you can check is the clutch pedal adjustment. On the other hand, having a low clutch means that the biting point is located further down of a fully depressed clutch pedal. Make note of the distance your clutch has to move downward before you can change gears. When I say too low I mean to close to the floor not the front. Clutch engages when pedal is lifted about 1/4" from floor (which makes for tyre squealing starts!!) My suggestion is to ask friends, co-workers, family, fellow bar-hopper, fellow church goers, anybody you have a personal relationship with, ask them who they use to repair their cars. Disc, pressure plate, slave/master only have a few thousand miles on them. A Toyota Truck clutch consists of the clutch reservoir, the master cylinder, hydraulic line, slave cylinder, throwout bearing release arm, throwout bearing, pressure plate and the clutch. [I’ve been told] … that either [a clutch master or slave cylinder] can leak internally. On the street I brake and when the rpms drop too low I shift to neutral. After 9 months I had a new genuine clutch put in. Steps to adjust are in this thread. Just replaced my LUK DMF clutch for the first time in my 2000 golf. Clutch pedal riding low, shifting difficult. 2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2 240K. Take some of the excess fluid out of the master cylinder. The slave cylinder used on that 2001 Cavalier is a Peugeot designed pain in the neck with its only redeeming virtue being that it eliminates several tep in labor on the assembly line. The excess fluid comes from the slave cylinder as the clutch plate wears down. I was able to negotiate that they put in a new clutch before i picked it up. I have a 2000 5 speed 4runner. Step 1 – Lift Up the Clutch Pedal. Low Fluid: If you have a hydraulic clutch, there are a couple of other things it could be. Just the way I learned. Low fluid or a leak will cause the brake pedal to be spongy. Over the last couple of months, it has again dropped to the point where I am having problems shifting because it is again in the very last tiny bit before I hit the floor. First and last and only time I will/have ever taken any car to a Firestone (only because it was a Sunday morning and no other place was open) - back in April 2018 to be told I needed a new master cylinder. Pelican Parts Forums > Porsche Forums > Porsche 911 Technical Forum: Clutch Pedal TOO Low Clutch pedal bite point sinking now too low. When the clutch pedal is depressed, a rod on the pedal pushes on the clutch master cylinder creating hydraulic pressure in the line to the slave cylinder on the side of the transmission. There should be an automatic adjuster on the pedal, so this may need fixing/replacing. Only that either one of them can leak internally. I bled the clutch, and replaced all wearable clutch parts (pre-verto clutch) to include clevis pins, clutch arm, plunger, release bearing. Some clutch pedals have an adjustment for clutch free play. Even on the 2017 Corolla it is only an hour job. If you aren’t losing any clutch fluid I think your best bet is to replace the master again. 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